A Secret Garden

What is it about discovering a secret garden that is so exciting? With summer coming up and travel plans swirling in my head, I began to think about how much fun it is to stumble upon a garden. Especially in a big city. Sometimes it happens fortuitously. You're tired. You've been walking on city streets all day, touring museums, and seeing historic places. And then there it is. The most welcome sight -- a beautiful place to sit down and rest. A place to reflect. A secret garden. You can't believe your luck and wonder if anyone else knows about it. This happened to me while in Edinburgh last summer when my husband and I stumbled upon Dunbar's Close Garden. It is a leafy green sanctuary in the heart of the city amid the bustle of the Royal Mile. Hidden behind a gate, this little garden is the perfect place to rest your weary feet.

Scotland is well known to possess a magical quality. If you've been watching the television series Outlander you are familiar with its mystique. Not surprisingly, Dunbar's Close Garden is tucked away in a deeply atmospheric part of Edinburgh at the end of a dark and narrow 'close' (a narrow lane) in the Old Town, just off the busy Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is a stretch of four ancient streets which formed the main thoroughfare of medieval Edinburgh, linking Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It has around 80 narrow lanes or 'closes' and when you are among them it is easy to imagine Edinburgh's medieval past.

The garden was designed in the style of the 17th-century with gravel paths, neatly trimmed shrubs, herbs, flowers and mature trees. Walking through its gates is like stepping into another world after the hustle and bustle of the Royal Mile. It is divided into three parterres. You can sit on a bench and enjoy the peace and quiet of this romantic green spot. The locals know about it and frequently come here with a cup of coffee or lunch to enjoy the sunshine and a few moments of peace and quiet. No one seems to stay very long and it is frequently empty.

The garden was created by Sir Patrick Geddes (1854-1932) who lived on the Royal Mile at the time. He was an eminent Scots biologist who stressed the connection between health and the environment. Geddes had a vision for a network of gardens around the city of which Dunbar's Close is one. By the 1970s the garden had fallen into disrepair. It was saved by a bequest which gifted the land to the City of Edinburgh Parks Department. In 1978 it was rebuilt by a landscape architect and has remained a delightful space ever since.

Being on one of these little lanes or 'closes' will make you feel connected to Scottish history. In Robert Burns' day, Dunbar's Close was famous for its oyster cellar. Apparently Burns was surprised to find fashionable ladies washing down their oyster suppers with ale or punch. You can almost feel their spirits as you enter the little alleyway that leads to the garden.

If you go to Edinburgh, one of my favorite cities in the world, be sure to visit this little gem. The symmetry of the garden's formal design is calming and there are beautiful stone benches to rest on. Being there will make you appreciate the connection between well-being and the outdoors that Sir Patrick Geddes had in mind when he created this space. It will remind you of the restorative power of a garden.

I have been reading a lot about gardens lately and love this quote by Allen Lacy in his book The Inviting Garden: Gardening for the Senses, Mind and Spirit --

"Gardening is restorative. It brings us back to the things we thought we had lost in childhood. It brings us back to our senses -- to the downy feel of the leaves of silver sage; to the perfume of jasmines and gardenias; to the taste of spearmint; to the sound of bamboo rustling in the sudden rush of wind before a storm; to the cool white beauty of a moonflower unfolding as dusk turns into night.

But the garden is not just a retreat from the world, and there is much more to gardening than sensory delights, as important as these are. In gardening we also encounter the larger world. Gardening engages the mind in an unending quest for knowledge, for it would take many lifetimes to know and understand everything that goes on in even the smallest garden. And, finally, gardening satisfies the spirit. It connects us with a small part of the natural order that is ours to tend during our time. It involves the desire to create something of beauty. It has to do with caring and feelings of belonging to earth. It connects us with others, for the company of gardeners is the closest thing on earth to the fellowship of saints and the communion of souls. It draws people together to become lifelong friends on the basis of a common passion for plants and affection for one another.

The pleasures of gardening are not partial, for they satisfy body, mind, and spirit. They also endure. Very few people take up gardening and then give it up because of waning interest. Whether we begin early or late, it is a lifelong commitment."

Thank you to the gardeners and garden dreamers who created this magical space!

Speaking of gardens, peace, and serenity, I hope you are doing something fun this holiday weekend. If you feel like seeing a movie, don't miss Love & Friendship based on Jane Austen's very funny novella Lady Susan. It is hilarious. I am taking a little break from the blog and will be back in June. Wishing you a Happy Memorial Day weekend!

Ready for Fall

I don't know about you, but every year at about this time I start to crave fall. The middle of August feels tantalizingly close to September and I am ready for the crisp and cool weather of the upcoming months. And right now we are in the middle of a heat wave. Although the weather continues to be hot here in September, the month brings shorter days and with that comes a sense of the changing seasons. So even in Los Angeles we start dreaming about pumpkins and apple pie.

But in my opinion, there is no place more beautiful in autumn than New England. One of my favorite things to do in October is travel to the east coast and stay at a country hotel such as The Pitcher Inn in Warren, Vermont. This year we are going to New York -- we got tickets for Hamilton! -- and then on to rural Litchfield, Connecticut for some leaf peeping and all the other things that go into a New England fall. We were there many years ago and loved it. I remember gorgeous gardens, antique stores, great restaurants, Federal style architecture and country walks. Every porch is decorated with chrysanthemums and pumpkins. I can hardly wait!

With fall on my mind, I began to think of my favorite things to do at this time of the year.

So here goes:  

Ten Things About Fall That Make Me Very Happy

1. Traveling to New England

Historic Deerfield, Massachusetts
Photo via here

One of my favorite places to visit in New England, especially when we are staying in the Berkshires, is Historic Deerfield, Massachusetts. The village consists of one street lined with 18th and 19th century houses that have all been restored to their original condition. Each one is like a little museum.

Here are some other things I like to see and do in New England in the fall. The list is far from exhaustive and in no particular order, but includes some of my favorites.

Shop at the antique stores in Woodbury, CT

Visit the covered bridge in Kent, CT

 Go to The Mount, Edith Wharton's home, in Lenox, Mass

Drive the beautiful Mohawk trail in Western Massachusetts and admire the stunning fall foliage of the Berkshire mountains

 See art in Williamstown, Mass. The Williams College Museum of Art and the Sterling and Francine Clark Museum have stellar art collections

  Visit Stockbridge, the idyllic Berkshire village painted by Norman Rockwell

 While in Stockbridge, stop at the Norman Rockwell Museum
Explore Woodstock, VT, one of the prettiest towns you'll ever see 

Go to nurseries in the area, such as the White Flower Farm in CT
Visit my alma mater Bates College in Maine and walk on the Quad which is carpeted with fall leaves
Eat a bowl of clam chowder at M.C. Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, Maine

 Admire the fall displays of mums and pumpkins that are everywhere!

2. Fall Cooking

There's nothing like cooking up a Wild Mushroom Risotto such as this one from Judith Jones' The Pleasures of Cooking for One to get you into nesting mode. This is a great dish for a cozy night at home. Go here for the recipe.

3. Flowers

I love the colors of fall flowers. These are from a flower arranging class I took last year. 

4. The beach

I have always thought that the beach is at its most beautiful in the fall and winter months. This photo was taken on a gorgeous day in November. There is something about the light at this time of year that makes the air crystal clear and the water glisten.

5. Sinking into a classic novel

I have just started rereading "To the Lighthouse" and am swept away by the beauty of the writing.

6. Adding some tartan to the house

I think that tartan looks especially good in the fall. It has the same crisp and tailored feeling of the season. These dishes finally arrived from Scotland and they remind me of my wonderful trip in June and my visit to the Anta store in Edinburgh, which has to be the the mother lode for all things tartan. I love the way the dishes look on the kitchen table!

7. Pulling out my favorite cookbooks

There are certain cookbooks that do seasonal recipes really well and Nigel Slater's Notes From The Larder is one of them. His pork chops with pears and cream is one of my favorites. Go here for the recipe.

8. Taking out fall table accessories

I have been collecting table ware with fall motifs forever and it's so much fun to take them out once October arrives. This table runner is from Italy and the leaf candle holder from a trip to Paris almost 20 years ago. The amber tea lights I bought in bulk one year for a party.

9. Lighting the candles at dusk on a fall night

As the days get shorter, candlelit tables bring a glow to the house and make staying inside feel very  cozy!

10. Wearing my Bloomsbury poncho

 Having lived on the east coast for so many years, I have been guilty of buying too many sweaters and coats for L.A. But it does eventually get cool enough here to wear some of them. This year I can't wait to bundle up in the Bloomsbury-inspired poncho I bought from Burberry last year. It was part of the Fall/Winter 2014 The Bloomsbury Girls collection and I got it on sale. After learning about the literary and artistic heritage behind this collection and Burberry's support of Charleston, the country retreat of the Bloomsbury Group, I was so happy to have one of these pieces. It will be perfect for a crisp day in October.

Have you travelled to any of the beautiful New England Inns during the fall months? 

I would love to know your favorites!

Magical Scotland

 It's easy to fall in love with Scotland. There is such an abundance of beauty and charm.

There is the magical quality to the light

The picturesque harbors

The fairy tale houses

The dramatic skies

The ancient castles

The wonders of nature

Don't you just love a backpacker wearing a kilt!

In the first week of June, we travelled from London to Edinburgh and spent a week in Scotland. I am officially in love with this country. We divided our week between the Highlands and Edinburgh. I had to get my "Outlander" fix in the Highlands! And although we barely scratched the surface of either place (especially the Highlands since it rained most of the time) we were able to enjoy both the natural scenery of the North as well as the more sophisticated charms of the capital. Hailing from Los Angeles where it is always warm and often hot, I didn't mind bundling up in a jacket and scarf to go outside. Neither did I mind returning to a cozy hotel to while away some hours in front of a roaring fireplace. I wrote about it each day in my travel journal. Having just gone back to read my thoughts and observations about both places, I was struck by how much I loved Scotland. The Highlands and Edinburgh were both enchanting.

 Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh

We took the train from London to Edinburgh, an experience which I highly recommend. This is such an easy and elegant way to travel. The Waverley train station in Edinburgh is conveniently located right next to our hotel, the Balmoral, where we stayed for one night before traveling to the Highlands. You can see the clock tower of the Balmoral all over town, guaranteeing that you will never get lost. Did you know that the Waverley train station is named after the Waverley Novels by Sir Walter Scott? When I discovered this, I began to get a hint of how special Scotland was. I don't think there are any other train stations named after a work of literature!

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But we would be coming back to Edinburgh in a couple of days. After spending a restful night at the Balmoral, we were off to the Highlands the following day.

Inverlochy Castle

Where all of its magic began to reveal itself

We stayed at Inverlochy Castle located in Fort William, near Britain's highest mountain Ben Nevis.

The 19th-century hotel overlooks a private loch and is set on a 500-acre estate

This was the view from our room. It seemed as if time had stood still in this part of the world.

Upon arriving we took a walk abound the property

And quickly discovered some special rooms in the hotel for sitting in front of that fire
The drawing room became a favorite place to have tea or a drink before dinner

The beautiful dining room serves breakfast and dinner each day

Crannog restaurant in Fort William

We had a lot of rain on this trip which meant we couldn't do many outdoor activities. In this kind of weather it was fun to go into the little town of Fort William to explore. One day I bought a copy of Jane Eyre from the local book store, little realizing what a perfect book it would be for this trip. Remember the first line? "There was no possibility of taking a walk that day." This was a wonderful book to read on the days it rained. That same day we discovered the charming Crannog restaurant on the water where we had a delicious lunch of smoked haddock chowder and a glass of white wine. It was a cozy place to while away a couple of hours and watch the boats sail by.

But on the day we took the ferry to the Isle of Skye the weather was beautiful

After a 30-minute ride on the ferry, we arrived at the Isle of Skye

Everywhere we looked was a picture postcard

This is the little village of Portree, viewed from the Cullin Hotel where we had lunch

Exploring Portree and its candy-colored cottages

More gorgeous views

Eilean Donan, a 13th-century castle set on a small island

Loch Garry

The Three Sisters mountain range was spectacular. I loved that there was still snow in June! On the way back to Fort William, we stopped to  look at Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Britain. It was also covered with snow and very dramatic.

Mountains, glens, coastlines and isles -- the natural beauty of the Highlands is simply staggering. Even on the grayest days, with a softly falling rain, the light is gorgeous. It is easy to understand   why so many films have been shot in Scotland. You just can't beat it for ambiance.

Back at the hotel cappuccino and hot tea never tasted so good! Of course the cookies didn't hurt...

It rained the rest of that afternoon and night, so we decided to stay in for dinner. After a restful night's sleep, we got on the road the next day and travelled back to Edinburgh where we would be staying for three more days.

On the way, we stopped at the House of Bruar. I wish I had more pictures, as this is the most amazing place. It is a multi-faceted shopping arcade in the middle of the Scottish countryside. In fact, it is advertised as "the home of country living." They have an extensive collection of Scottish products, including beautiful Scottish cashmere. We browsed through all the shops, bought a few gifts to take home, and ate a delicious lunch in their food hall. The smoked fish plate comes with thick slices of homemade brown bread and includes the best smoked salmon I have ever tasted. That was followed by shortbread and coffee. It was heaven. The first of the season Scottish strawberries (above) had just arrived and was a reminder that summer had come to Scotland.

Back in Edinburgh we were treated to some beautiful weather, the kind of weather that is a spectacular backdrop to this stunning city. The cloud-filled skies, gray stone buildings and emerald green spaces are a winning combination. Every vista looked like a painting. And since it doesn't get dark until 10:00 pm in June, there were many hours to enjoy all this beauty.

We walked and walked and walked; this city is wonderfully walkable!

The Royal Mile

Hollyroodhouse Palace, the official residence of the Queen when she is in Scotland.
This place is filled with so much history. Mary Queen of Scots lived here.

The chapel ruins

It could be the setting for a Gothic novel

The gardens at Hollyroodhouse Palace are beautiful

St. Giles Cathedral

This is where John Knox directed the Scottish Reformation. If you visit, be sure to see the Thistle Chapel which honors the knights of the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle. The rib-vaulted ceiling and carved heraldic canopies are really something to see.

The Scottish National Gallery

Dunbar Close -- a secret garden in the middle of the city

We browsed through Waterstone's Bookstore on Princes Street

Had a drink at the Dome, a very elegant bar on George Street

And ate at several fabulous restaurants, including Rhubarb at Prestonfield House

Some other restaurants we enjoyed were The Witchery, Angels with Bagpipes and The Wedgewood. I love the names. Each place has incredible food and delightful Scottish ambiance.

Photo via here

We also went to Anta, a store in Edinburgh I have always wanted to visit. It carries superb Scottish woolen products, home furnishings, and ceramics all designed in tartan plaids. I bought a tartan throw as well as some dishes in the pattern shown above. I can't wait until they arrive so I can bring a little Scottish magic into my house.

Edinburgh is a city filled with beauty, elegance, enchantment and history. The ancient medieval buildings that are scattered around the city and the elegant Georgian streets and squares combine to make this an extraordinary place. It has such a sense of fun. Bagpipe players are around every corner. The people are friendly, the food is delicious, the museums and galleries are filled with great art, and the most elegant men are clad in tartan kilts.

 I fell in love with Scotland. This beautiful and wild country has been a muse to many writers and artists over the years and now I can understand why. I am so happy I went and can't wait to return. There is so much more to see.

A big thank you to Pamela Terry who writes the blog From the House of Edward. When I began to plan the trip, I knew she was the person to ask for advice. She is a lover of Scotland. Her reply was a beautiful little essay on the charms of Scotland that I will treasure forever!

Have you been to Scotland? Did you fall in love?